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Made in America: A 400 watt HPS & Metal Halide Grow Light that Pounds Out the Light! It is PERFECT FOR THE SERIOUS GROWER, Just what you need for full scale production! HPS gives you the most light per dollar. Metal Halide provides the best early growth spectrum! It’s Bright because it’s a FULL HOOD! With generous side and end deflectors, this excellent hood delivers more light than those crummy open ended batwings. It has no light trapping closed corners and does not re-reflect light back into the reflector. BEWARE: DON’T TRAP YOUR LIGHT IN A BOX! Our deflectors are scientifically slanted to deflect light straight down on the plants in a single bounce! Stay away from box shaped lights with vertical (non slanted) end panels. These Trap Light. (Details Later) It features High Blue Content Metal Halide Conversion bulb best for Vegetative Growth and High Red Light Content HPS for Budding and Flowering! Plants most efficiently use red light for photosynthesis. (Plants are green because they reflect green light back!) The deep orange light of the HPS lamp contains plenty of nutritious red light. Plants can almost as efficiently use blue light. And in the early grow stages, blue light of the metal halide bulb is imperative for natural vigorous growth. It’s Cool. We offer a totally different type of reflector that does not produce hot spots. Our engineered reflector directs light straight down with out focusing it to a line. Plus, because our reflector is so much more efficient, you don’t have to have the hot bulb so close to the plants. It's a Virgin Light: w/Top Quality New Ballast, New Lamp & New High Yield Reflector It's priced so low! How much money will you lose trying to fix a "discarded" light that someone "refurbished" into a "new" growlight when it blows out? You wouldn’t buy used spark plugs, would you?…. So why buy a discarded light fixture that someone "refurbished" into a grow light? Excellent grow light includes: (1) NEW! FULL HOOD REFLECTOR that delivers more of the light you're paying for. (2) NEW Top Notch USA Quality Ballast (3) New 400 w bulbs (HPS & Metal Halide Conversion), New socket, New heavy gauge power cord, ballast to lamp cord with quick disconnects. (4) Blemished ballast enclosure that we've repainted to save you $$$. (This is the only item that is not completely new) When you need Dual Spectrums (HPS/MH): HPS bulbs usually make more light energy than metal halide (MH) lamps. However, the orange HPS (identical to street light) HPS spectrum is defective so that it produces unnatural lanky growth. On the other hand, natural white light metal halides produce lush compact growth with lots of leaves. So a good strategy is to start under metal halide until the plant is nearly fully grown. Then you switch to the higher light energy HPS bulb for budding, flowering, and fruiting. HOW Does this light Compare to Others on EBAY? 1. Higher Output. (a) Better (1.5 Power) Reflector-Slanted End Wings are the Key This is an economy four sided version of our SUPER OUTPUT Series Reflector. (see Ray diagrams) This economy version reflector is head and shoulders above the competitor’s open ended batwings or fixture with square, non-slanted ends. More Light = More Growth. Also: More Usable Light per fixture = Fewer and/or Lower wattage fixtures required = Electrical Savings. Here’s the critical and costly error that others make: They act like light only comes off the side of a bulb. Light actually comes off of each portion of a light bulb in all possible directions. The truth is our competitors have really blown it. They need to think in 3 dimensions. The electric arc inside of an HPS or Metal Halide lamp emits light in all possible directions as shown in the picture. That’s why we offer our large, multi-faceted hoods to fully enclose the bulb. It’s what's required to fully capture and redirect light down on your plants. Low end fixtures are made by just bending corrugated aluminum in a hump. Light will fly right out the open ends over the tops of the plants. What a waste! Are you trying to light up your plants or the wall? If you want to grow plants, use this reflector, not crummy open ended ones. Bad Lights have gotten worse. Other lights are built like shoe boxes. That is the ends are boxed in with flat vertical panels. As shown on the diagram at the side, light bounces back and forth between the end panels, losing intensity with each bounce. The optical efficiency of these shoe box lights is terrible! The best shoe box light I could find still loses 22% of the light internally. The worst photometric report I’ve ever seen showed just under a 50% loss. What is worse? Vertical aluminum end panels do nothing to deflect light in a downward direction. Instead, a light ray bounces back and forth at the same exact angle. And if a light ray escapes the reflector, it is still not headed in the direction of the plants! When one ebay seller put end panels on his crummy batwing, he said "the best got better". The truth is "the bad got worse". So why are these batwing or shoe box lights even made? The answer is that they are cheap to make and don’t require skilled labor. As you have seen, they are not good lights. (b) We use a Tortoise 400 w bulb that beats the Jack Rabbit 430 w "high output" bulb. Light bulbs lose light output as they age. Fast buck salesmen like to quote initial light outputs. But lighting engineers measure light using "median" or "design lumens" to truly measure usable output as the bulb ages. That's why we use bulbs that make more light over the long haul! Some companies may try to sell you 430 watt bulbs that they call "high output" 400 watt bulbs. so-called high output bulb does not hold up on HPS bulbs are not like normal light bulbs. You can't screw an HPS bulb into any ole wattage ballast and get the light output labeled on the box. So the high output bulb ratings can be phony, even though a 430 watt bulb will start on a 400 w ballast. Even if you use the 430 watt bulb on a matching 430 watt ballast, the light production. Manufacturers data clearly shows that at 6,400 hours (which is only 27% of the claimed bulb life) a Jack Rabbit 430 w bulb makes only 47,770 lms of light. Our Tortoise 400 w bulb is making 48,000 lms then. -- But it’s using ~30 less watts to do it! Over the long haul, we give you More Light for Less Money. Even when the Jack Rabbit bulb is at full brightness when first run on a full (430) watt ballast, it is no more energy efficient than the Tortoise bulb. After the bulb ages it is actually less energy efficient than a Tortoise bulb. 2 A Real 2 year Manufacturer’s Warranty. Since the ballast is new, it is warranted by the US manufacturer. We are not taking used, scrapped lights out of a factory, cleaning them and calling them "refurbished" and reusing the ballasts. If by chance, something is wrong with a ballast component, you get a new replacement. You won’t get another used piece of junk that should have gone for scrap. We know this is true, because people are coming to us for repair parts. We offer low costs on new electricals and new reflectors. This fixture is all new except for the blemished ballast enclosure that we’ve repainted. 3. Our Fixture has a better ballast Featuring: (1)Low Heat S51 400 watt HPS Core (uses 5 watts less energy than competitive ballasts) This ballast’s laminations are vacuum impregnated with insulation to optimize cooling and generate about lowest sound rating in the industry. Cheaper cores are just slopped full of orange varnish that’s prone to have air bubbles. (2) High Temperature Igniter (105 C) (The igniter is the big bottle type, not the little bolt on type that can cause problems.) (3) Dry High Temperature Capacitor (100 C) (It is not oil filled so it can't leak. The capacitor is a very large 1.75" by 4.87", so it can easily dissipate heat. There are cheap mini-capacitors that may be called "high temperature", but they are so small that they actually heat up enough to exceed their ratings. Tricky offshore manufacturers often take two small capacitors and put them in a case. Not so here, the capacitor is solid all the way.) 4. It is Sealed for Your protection -- We still make fixtures the old fashioned way. -- WATER & ELECTRICITY DON’T MIX! We enclose your ballast to keep moisture off and to prevent mechanical damage. Look closely at how some grow lights have been cheapened. If you see a light fixture with a big black block on the side or on the bottom, that’s the ballast core. Having the ballast exposed leaves it susceptible to moisture and mechanical damage. It’s never a good idea to spray a ballast with water, but if condensation or over spray is a concern, our fixture’s enclosure allows an additional measure of safety. The enclosure helps prevent mechanical damage too! We do not cheapen the fixture by leaving the ballast exposed to injury. The vulnerable ballast cores that you see exposed on competitors designs are nothing more than a series of thin steel plates with insulating vanish in between and around. If this ballast gets banged around, it's possible to short the plates out. We’ve personally seen this happen before. It’s not that exposed designs are particularly dangerous, as long as they are used correctly. Some people are overly worried about heat build up with ballasts, probably due to experience with low quality ballasts using oil filled capacitors. (Ours our dry film) If it makes you feel better, the lid on the ballast enclosure will rest open for air flow. But this isn’t necessary. This fixture uses a tough, high grade ballast intended to be used in applications where it’s necessary to seal out water and corrosive vapors. For instance, we use the same ballast in our completely sealed flood lights. Here the ballast can be locked into a sealed box with a burning lamp. This fixture is designed to conduct ballast heat outside through the chassis. WE ARE THE GUYS TO TRUST! Our charts, graphs, and statistics are based upon fundamental physics and engineering. We want to educate people about how lights work so you can understand how truly superior our products are. Our principal engineer has a Master’s degree. And we have a 12 year track record of light fixture manufacturing. We have specialized in photobiology for animal and plant production and in energy efficiency. We are known for inventive reflectors and being great new light source pioneers. You wouldn’t buy used spark plugs, would you?…. So why buy a discarded light fixture that someone "refurbished" into a grow light? Light fixtures don’t last forever. Eventually the ballasts blow out. That’s why we use all new ballasts, lamps, and electricals of the highest quality. Yet some guys, looking for the quick buck, buy up discarded industrial light fixtures and convert them into grow lights-- calling them "refurbished". In general, you are looking for trouble if you buy a grow light made from discarded HPS fixture parts. The high voltage pulsing created when starting HPS lamps is very hard on the ballasts, especially since industrial lights are most often used in hot high ceilings. Consider where these discarded light fixtures come from. As ballasts fail, it reaches a point where it’s cheaper to buy all new light fixtures than fix the old. As many customers complain, it’s often cheaper to buy a whole new light fixture than to buy a replacement ballast. It is simply not cost effective to hire high priced electrical contractors or rent lifts to maintain fixtures. Savvy building owners often evade waste disposal regulations by dumping their old light fixtures for cheap rather than recycle them. So there is a ready supply of nearly burned out light fixtures available for you to buy as "refurbished" grow lights. Reused HPS fixtures are especially troublesome because they are so old. HPS was a very common industrial light source about 15 years ago. It’s very efficient but makes an orange light. Eventually people have recognized that you just can’t see as good and concentrate as well under orange light as you can under white light, and very high energy efficiency white light sources were developed. So, around these parts, factories stopped installing these lights about 10 years ago. To me it seems likely that if you buy a refurbished (reused) HPS grow light, you are likely getting something that has had at least a decade of hard industrial use. We hope we can help you out with this economical high efficiency light! Visit My eBay Store: Great Lights 4 Less We'll leave the light on for you! Please check below for pertinent shipping & payment information. SHIPPING: Shipping to Alaska & Hawaii is higher - please email for rates. WE DISCOUNT shipping on multiple items & TRY to ECONOMIZE by using regional pkg. delivery companies (or DHL - which includes some insurance) when possible. If we have to ship USPS, insurance is extra. NOTE: OUR NORMAL SHIP TIME IS 1-3 DAYS AFTER RECEIPT OF PAYMENT IN FULL. DUE TO CIRCUMSTANCES BEYOND OUR CONTROL (IE: HIDDEN DAMAGE) - SOME ITEMS MAY TAKE UP TO 2 WEEKS TO SHIP - THOUGH THIS RARELY HAPPENS-WE WANT TO MAKE YOU AWARE THAT THIS CAN HAPPEN. PLEASE BE aware-not all items can ship together. Please advise if address is RESIDENTIAL OR BUSINESS. FOB shipping point, freight prepaid. "Discounted" shipping in listings is FOR LIKE ITEMS ONLY. For discounts on other products shipped together - please email. Customer Satisfaction is our main concern - email with any concerns. PAYMENT: Paypal is our preferred method of payment & ships faster! FEEDBACK: OUR SYSTEM is set to automatically leave positive feedback when items have been paid for and have had positive feedback left. RETURN POLICY / WARRANTY INFO: Our Return Policy and Warranty Information is found in our "about me" page and made a part of this sale by reference.
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